Part Four - Cleaning and
Keyboard Setup

I started the cleaning process by thoroughly sweeping and vacuuming the inside of the case. While removing the leaves and twigs, I was pleasently surprised to find the missing hammer tip, several screws, washers, and a tine. Here's the cleaned case; what a difference.

Cleaned Case

Next, I dusted off the wooden keyboard frame and used a small, soft brush to clean the strip of red felt at the far end of the frame.

Cleaned Wooden Frame

I cleaned the cheekblocks with some Fantastik and remounted them to the frame. I then remounted the frame in the case taking great care to light it up precisely with all of the various screw holes to avoid having to shift it later in the game.

The next hour and a half were spent cleaning each key individually. I was surprised at how white they turned out to be. The yellowing, which I suppose was from cigarette smoke, came off quite easily with a little Fantastik and a paper towel. I then began re-inserting the keys onto their guide pins.

At this point I ran up against my first real dilemma. It seems that different keys behave differently when set in their position on the frame. About 40% of the keys are stiff enough that when they are depressed they stay stuck down. About 60% will tilt back up to their normal position after being depressed and have a looser action, while one key (see picture) stays tilted down all the time, even with the weight screwed to the back of the key. Mind you that this is without the hammer modules installed or any type of adjustment being made.

The real question is, what is the proper stiffness/friction that the keys should have when in this loose setup. Obviously having these two different degrees of stiffness will be noticeable when the piano is reassembled and played. Help!

Part Five - Action Setup

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Pat Terrell